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 | | Help with Rascal brakes please?? |
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 Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 12:38 pm |
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| cheekyweerascal |
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| Joined: 31 May 2008 |
Posts: 23
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| Location: Brighton Sussex |
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Hi there, Can anyone tell me whats involved fitting a brake master cylinder... V/hall Rascal 1992 Kreg.
I have a good pedal, and brakes feel okay, but she failed the mot on rear brakes (foot not handbrake)
I've fitted new rear cylinders and shoes... handbrake holds fantastic but wheel still turns with foot brake applied.
I have removed and bypassed the rear load valve to isolate the problem but this made no difference.
I've ordered another master cylinder, I believe this is above the brake pedal somewhere ??. Can anyone give me removal/install details??.
Has anyone experienced these symptoms ? are there any other sneeky wee valves somewhere ?. Any help would be fantastic. Many thanks in advance.
regards
Charlie. |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 7:39 pm |
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| David D |
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| Joined: 17 Jan 2008 |
Posts: 8
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| Location: Washington, Tyne & Wear |
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Hi Charlie
Me and my wife replaced the master cylinder on our 1988 Rascal camper last month. We did it following the Haynes manual. It was a bit of a pain as the dash and steering column had to come out to get access but once this was out of the way it wasn't that bad.
Take care if you have to release the choke cable as we did. It was frayed and extremely difficult to get back in. I got a second hand one from bedfordrascal.com as new ones are no longer available but I did get the original back in eventually. However, I did have to trim a bit off the end and it is now only just long enough now so I may have to use the replacement in the future.
Generally, the master cylinder replacement wasn't that bad compared to how it sounded in the manual. I am an amateur home mechanic so I followed the instructions step by step. Bleeding the brakes was one of the worst bits as it took ages to get all the air out.
My pedal was really soft (to the floor) which is why we replaced the master cylinder but if you have a good brake pedal it may be something else. Not sure what but could be the automatic adjusters on the rear brakes. Hopefully someone else might know.
Good luck
David |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 8:08 pm |
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| cheekyweerascal |
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| Joined: 31 May 2008 |
Posts: 23
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| Location: Brighton Sussex |
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Hi David, many thanks for your reply.
Well, I'm discounting the rear load valve as I by-passed it.
New cylinders and shoes to the rear.
HAND adjusted the rear shoes just to be on the safe side, though self adjusters appear to operate as they should, plus a great handbrake tells me the adjustment is fine.
So I think it only leaves the master cylinder... i.e. the part of the cylinder feeding the front calipers functions correctly, but maybe the part feeding the rear is failing under pressure.
It's booked for the mot on Tuesday, hopefully the master cylinder will arrive tomorrow (Monday) so I will have to get a haynes manual for details of dash/steering columb removal. I will post the results as I go with the intention of helping those with similar problems. Thanks again David.
kind regards
Charlie.
p.s. How long should the job take...approx?? |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 8:24 pm |
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| super carry pete |
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| Joined: 29 May 2008 |
Posts: 72
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| Location: derby |
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| cheekyweerascal wrote: | Hi David, many thanks for your reply.
Well, I'm discounting the rear load valve as I by-passed it.
New cylinders and shoes to the rear.
HAND adjusted the rear shoes just to be on the safe side, though self adjusters appear to operate as they should, plus a great handbrake tells me the adjustment is fine.
So I think it only leaves the master cylinder... i.e. the part of the cylinder feeding the front calipers functions correctly, but maybe the part feeding the rear is failing under pressure.
It's booked for the mot on Tuesday, hopefully the master cylinder will arrive tomorrow (Monday) so I will have to get a haynes manual for details of dash/steering columb removal. I will post the results as I go with the intention of helping those with similar problems. Thanks again David.
kind regards
Charlie.
p.s. How long should the job take...approx?? |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 8:26 pm |
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| super carry pete |
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| Joined: 29 May 2008 |
Posts: 72
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| Location: derby |
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| super carry pete wrote: | | cheekyweerascal wrote: | Hi David, many thanks for your reply.
Well, I'm discounting the rear load valve as I by-passed it.
New cylinders and shoes to the rear.
HAND adjusted the rear shoes just to be on the safe side, though self adjusters appear to operate as they should, plus a great handbrake tells me the adjustment is fine.
So I think it only leaves the master cylinder... i.e. the part of the cylinder feeding the front calipers functions correctly, but maybe the part feeding the rear is failing under pressure.
It's booked for the mot on Tuesday, hopefully the master cylinder will arrive tomorrow (Monday) so I will have to get a haynes manual for details of dash/steering columb removal. I will post the results as I go with the intention of helping those with similar problems. Thanks again David.
kind regards
Charlie.
p.s. How long should the job take...approx?? |
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can any one put a post on here and blow the insrutions up so you can red the step by step guide for you  or on the internet |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:00 pm |
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| cheekyweerascal |
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| Joined: 31 May 2008 |
Posts: 23
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| Location: Brighton Sussex |
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Hi Pete, thanks for your input. I've scoured the web, but nothing...went to Halfords today for a manual, None (as usual) I will try my local motor factor in the morning. Thanks again.
regards
Charlie. |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:06 pm |
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| super carry pete |
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| Joined: 29 May 2008 |
Posts: 72
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| Location: derby |
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| cheekyweerascal wrote: | Hi Pete, thanks for your input. I've scoured the web, but nothing...went to Halfords today for a manual, None (as usual) I will try my local motor factor in the morning. Thanks again.
regards
Charlie. |
hi charlie
if you become a member of your local liebury (i cant spell) they will get you a manual and you can borrow it for a long time it does not cost alot they may not have one there, but they will get it for you you will say what year it is i,e 1990.
hope this helps
regards pete |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:20 am |
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| wagonmaster |
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| Joined: 04 Mar 2008 |
Posts: 18
Respect: +2
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found on e-bay haynes manual item no 280230474930 at £13.87 plus £2.96 postage & packing  |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:44 pm |
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| David D |
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| Joined: 17 Jan 2008 |
Posts: 8
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| Location: Washington, Tyne & Wear |
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p.s. How long should the job take...approx??
This was the first time I'd ever replaced a master cylinder on any vehicle so I took my time and did exactly what the Haynes manual said. With the help of my wife, we could have done it in a day until we had the problem with the choke cable. If that had gone straight back in it would have been fine but we ended up giving up and going back to it the next day. As I mentioned before, bleeding the brakes took a while but that was really the last part of the job.
Hope it goes well
David |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:20 pm |
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| cheekyweerascal |
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| Joined: 31 May 2008 |
Posts: 23
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| Location: Brighton Sussex |
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Well, still no sign of my replacement part  I've now got a manual, and I stripped the dash, steering columb etc enough to get to the master cylinder, but left it in place untill new bit comes.
In stripping these out, I found another valve bolted to thr right of the steering. I bypassed this also, then bled the brakes again but still no change. So that really leaves only the master to blame. If the master solves the problem then I will reattach both proportioning valves... one at a time, just to be sure. I will report back when my bit arrives.
thanks again guys for all the advice.
regards
Charlie. |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:47 pm |
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| super carry pete |
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| Joined: 29 May 2008 |
Posts: 72
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| Location: derby |
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| cheekyweerascal wrote: | Well, still no sign of my replacement part I've now got a manual, and I stripped the dash, steering columb etc enough to get to the master cylinder, but left it in place untill new bit comes.
In stripping these out, I found another valve bolted to thr right of the steering. I bypassed this also, then bled the brakes again but still no change. So that really leaves only the master to blame. If the master solves the problem then I will reattach both proportioning valves... one at a time, just to be sure. I will report back when my bit arrives.
thanks again guys for all the advice.
regards
Charlie. |
hi charlie
we look forward to hear how it gone.
regards pete |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 8:42 am |
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| spacehopper |
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| Joined: 25 Mar 2008 |
Posts: 30
Respect: +2
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Bleeding brakes becomes a whole lot easier if you treat yourself to a 'Mityvac' - a little hand operated vacuum pump that attatches to the nipple and you just suck the air out. About £40 but worth it - just have a search on ebay.
(Useful for other stuff too - when the actuater that works the vacuum operated difflock on my truck failed in Iceland, we connected the Mityvac and frantically hand pumped it when we needed the difflock!!)
Never had a problem with Rascal brakes or with the load senser (they are usually seized up anyway!). If you think the load senser is preventing you from bleeding the rear brakes properly you need to wedge it open. Just putting a load of weight in the back should do it. |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:32 am |
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| super carry pete |
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| Joined: 29 May 2008 |
Posts: 72
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| Location: derby |
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| spacehopper wrote: | Bleeding brakes becomes a whole lot easier if you treat yourself to a 'Mityvac' - a little hand operated vacuum pump that attatches to the nipple and you just suck the air out. About £40 but worth it - just have a search on ebay.
(Useful for other stuff too - when the actuater that works the vacuum operated difflock on my truck failed in Iceland, we connected the Mityvac and frantically hand pumped it when we needed the difflock!!)
Never had a problem with Rascal brakes or with the load senser (they are usually seized up anyway!). If you think the load senser is preventing you from bleeding the rear brakes properly you need to wedge it open. Just putting a load of weight in the back should do it. |
a up
av you got the ebay item number, can we go through directly from the number to ebay site as that would be very handy
regards pete |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 1:17 pm |
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| spacehopper |
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| Joined: 25 Mar 2008 |
Posts: 30
Respect: +2
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| Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 5:47 pm |
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| cheekyweerascal |
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| Joined: 31 May 2008 |
Posts: 23
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| Location: Brighton Sussex |
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Hi everyone.. lots of great advice there
Okay, job done.
Master cylinder arrived this morning.
I fitted it then bled the system (still leaving the dash etc stripped) brakes both front & rear worked a treat. I then refitted the proportioning valve on the rear axle...bled system...working great. I then refitted the front valve, again bled the system. Still worked great.
So I guess I did indeed have a dodgy master cylinder. I've booked the mot for Saturday morning and will see how she goes on the test and report back again.
Why in goodness name did it have to be behind that dash lol, I was carfull with the choke cable Pete, no probs encountered. Again, many thanks to y'all for the great advice. Oh, and as I now have a manual...anyone needing info from it please just ask.
regards
Charlie |
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